Copyright: Time Out Istanbul
Edited for the website by YKC Tüketim ve Bilişim A.Ş.

Let’s take a stroll back through the narrow streets of Fener and Balat filled with centuries of Byzantine and Ottoman history, and check out the progress of the ongoing rehabilitation project in the district.

The Rehabilitation of Fener and Balat, a project jointly funded by the EU, the Turkish Government, and the local Fatih Municipality, aims to restore historical buildings in the area, improve waste management, establish a social center and improve the Balat market. The main purpose is to help raise social and economic standards of the inhabitants and preserve the historical heritage of the district. The project also aims to establish dialogue between the project administrators and the community, whose participation in the decision making process will be vital to make the project a success. It will improve local infrastructure to help raise the living standards of the current inhabitants.

The names Fener and Balat will not mean much to the ordinary tourist or Istanbulite. Even your taxi driver might be confused about Fener’s whereabouts and might offer to take you to Fenerbahçe on the Asian side! Often ignored, this district is so much more than just a historically significant neighbourhood, it is the only place where the spirit of old Istanbul still dwells without a fuss. Here you will not encounter anyone trying to sell you souvenirs, nor are you likely to find any restaurants or bars filled with tourists. There are, however, a number of fabulous fish restaurants next door in Cibali. Located on the left bank of the Golden Horn, Fener, and Balat are only a ten-minute drive away from Sultanahmet. The vast majority of Fener’s Greek inhabitants have long gone, but the traces they have left are still visible. Most of the Byzantine churches with beautiful mosaics and the finely decorated facades of the Greek houses are still there, but they all require urgent attention. Their beauty often hides behind washing lines galore tied across the street from one house to the other.

Fener
We decided that the Greek Patriarchate, the Greek Orthodox Church’s equivalent of the Vatican, which moved to Fener in 1599, would be an appropriate starting point. We suggest you to forget about maps. This amazing district deserves your undivided attention. Don’t be scared to wander off into whichever street takes your fancy. Even when you think you’re lost, you suddenly catch a comforting glimpse of the Golden Horn. Continue towards Balat from the Patriarchate, and you will see an amazing 19th century castle-like red brick structure, the Greek Boys College on the top of a tiny street. The nearby Vlach Palace, a derelict estate surrounded by a garden was once the private mansions of the Prince of Wallachians. It even hosted the Patriarchate for a decade. The rehabilitation project has set out to restore it. As you keep walking on the newly-paved narrow street —courtesy of the Fatih municipality— surrounded by all the beautiful unkept houses, you get the feeling that time has stood still here for many centuries. Check out the shop window of the haberdasher’s/stationary shop on Vodina Caddesi (No: 53). A quick trip back to the coast road will lead you to the well-kept garden of the church of St. Stephen of the Bulgars, a beautifully decorated, white 19th century building which looks like a small palace. Most of the historic sights do not have regular visiting hours and entry is at the discretion of the resident caretakers.

Balat
Where Fener ends, Balat—the old Jewish quarter of the city—starts. The first slightly run-down historical estate you will come across on Vodina Street marks the start of Balat. Most of the Ottoman houses in Balat date back to the 19th century. The vast majority of the earlier houses turned to dust as a result of consecutive fires. There are six synagogues, and half of them date back to the Byzantine times. Today, only two are open to worship and visits subject to permission. The magnificent Ahrida Synagogue, which was established in the 15th century, is the most important of all. There is also the 19th century Yanbol Synagogue which open to visits. Also Balat used to have a small Armenian population marked by the presence of the Surp Hıreşdegabet Armenian Church, which has beautiful engravings inside. Finally, the 16th century Ferruh Kethuda Mosque was built by Master Architect Sinan and its altar is decorated with tiles from İznik. Balat was once famous for its many meyhanes, which literally means “house of alcohol”. However, even the last famous standing one, Agora, located at the heart of the Balat market, has recently closed down. In late Ottoman times, Agora used to be a place where Ottoman Greeks, Jews, Armenians and Turks got together to chat over a drink. The Balat market, consisting of tiny shops, will also be improved as part of the rehabilitation project to support the local economy. For a pint of local lager, you may drop to Cahit Baba’s place. The staff of this tiny pub are very friendly and make you feel welcome.

As a result of the rehabilitation project, real estate prices in the area have increased three to fourfold although estate agents complain that buyers have not yet come in. The success of the project will depend much on the participation of the current inhabitants because without their consent, the houses cannot be restored. The project is still in its initial stages. Although a lot of planning and admin work has been done, most of the actual work is to be completed at the end of 2006. There is much speculation among the bohemian community that this could be a new upcoming area in town. Cihangir, the current favourite, beware! Your new found days of glory may soon come to an end...

Where to eat Several fish restaurants on the shore of Cibali have impressive views of the Golden Horn, the Galata Tower, Taksim, Kasımpaşa, the Bosphorus and the Haydarpaşa Train Station.

Cibalikapı Balıkçısı Abdülezel Paşa Caddesi 7, Cibali. (0212) 533 28 46 The oldest and most famous establishment. Offers a wide range of delectable mezes (starters) made with seafood and fresh herbs. 45 YTL per head including drinks.

Balıkçı Io Abdülezel Paşa Caddesi 13, Cibali. (0212) 533 62 66 Walls decorated with mosaics showing mythological scenes. Topik (Armenian dish), fish pastrami, marinated sea bass, anchovies on wine leaf, stuffed mackerel are recommended. 50 YTL per head.

Barba Giritli Balık Lokantası Abdülezel Paşa Caddesi 3, Cibali. (0212) 533 18 66 Two-storey eatery, complete with neon lights and fish nets. Offers a compulsory fix menu. 35 million TL per head.

Sultani - Abdülezel Paşa Caddesi 201, Cibali. (0212) 534 80 03 A great kebab house located in a restored Greek house. Live Turkish music on selected days. Very popular, so book well in advance. Kebabs cost between 7.5 - 9 YTL

Köfteci Arnavut Mürsel Paşa Caddesi 155, Köprübaşı-Balat. (0212) 531 66 52 A perfect little authentic place for a quick snack. 65-year-old historic Greek house. Famous for delicious meatballs, bean salad (“köfte” and “piyaz”) and Armenian style fried liver. Remember: They usually run out of meatballs by 15.00 and close their doors for the day.

Balat İşkembecisi Balat Çarşısı, Balat. The tripe house offers many controversial delicacies such as tripe soup and brain salad and is supposed to be one of the best of its kind.

For more information on the Rehabilitation project contact: Ms Senem Kadıoğlu, Fatih Municipality. (0212) 534 80 20