Copyright: Time Out Istanbul
Edited for the website by YKC Tuketim ve Bilisim A.S.

Any big-city transplantee believes that he or she knows all about getting into a taxi. After all, you get in, give the driver directions, pay at your destination and get out. Well, Istanbul’s one-of-a-kind experiences extends to transportation, in particular to four wheeled rides via chofer.

Istanbul’s taxi services have a reputation for taking advantage of the unwary, with the philosophy being that if you have the money in your wallet, you can afford to fork it over. However, just like haggling over that extra 1 YTL for a box of Turkish delights at the Spice Bazaar, you can win the respect of your driver by staying alert, watching the meter, and questioning or even refusing to pay an exorbitant rate.

If you are a newbie to the city, here are some essential guidelines to the art of the taxi ride: First of all, there are two types of rates: “gündüz”, the daytime rate and “gece”, the higher rate that kicks in after midnight. The easiest way for a driver to get a little extra cash in his pocket is by hitting the button for the night rate during the day. How can you spot it? The meter during the day should always start at 1,050 YTL, and higher increments run at a rate of 79 YTL. The word gündüz should flash periodically on the meter. If it doesn’t, point this out to your driver with a questioning look and simply ask “problem?” This usually earns a sheepish smile and a quick flick of the meter button.

The trickier question is how to actually watch the meter without hanging over the arm of the driver as he downshifts. Most taximeters are positioned just over the gearbox, so after checking the rate when you first sit down, it’s difficult to monitor the meter. However, true Istanbulites have mastered the art of meter-reading in the window reflections. Focusing on the windows on the right-hand side will usually give you a clear, but backwards-reading view of the meter. If you are not in touch with your dyslexic side, brace yourself on the seat and get a little up close and personal periodically.

Now if you actually snag a view of the meter, you might realize that you are indeed being ripped off. In Istanbul taxis, if the wheels don’t turn, the meter shouldn't move. In our much-loved but traffic-clogged metropolis, this keeps you from paying 20 YTL for a ride from Eminönü to Taksim, which in terms of distance should only cost about 4 YTL. But what saves you money can also be very frustrating for your driver, who loses time and fare money sitting in traffic for hours. Therefore, the incentive to tamper with the meter can be high. If your meter moves more than once when you are sitting at a stoplight or in traffic, there’s a problem. Your options in this case are limited. You can either get out of the cab and look for another one, or try to negotiate a set price for getting to your destination. You can cite traffic or lack of funds in your wallet. Negotiating a price will usually result in a fare higher than the true cost, but probably still less than what the cost would be on the tampered meter.

Finally, try to avoid obvious tourist traps. If you are catching a taxi in front of a major attraction, your status as a tourist makes you a prime target for a rip-off. Taxis operating in Sultanahmet have an especially bad reputation as some of the city’s most famous sites are located there. Be extra vigilant! If you are in a taxi and are sure there is a problem but don’t feel brave enough to confront the driver, write down the taxi number that is painted on the doors and the roof of the car. Report your problem to the tourist police, who will be happy to hear from you, as they are trying to crack down on taxi scams. You won’t get your money back, but you will feel better. Most important to remember is: be friendly, direct, and smart. If you get ripped off, just remember that it was an extra glass of bira (beer) you probably didn’t need anyway, and it’s all part of that Istanbul experience.